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Continue reading →: Joel Martínez at 432 on Building Perfumery Beyond the LaboratoryI came to Joel Martínez through someone I trust when it comes to perfume: my brother. We share a deep love for classical French perfumery and its discipline, the kind of flawless construction that leaves nothing unresolved. But where I tend to be cautious, he is more willing to venture…
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Continue reading →: Lancôme Idôle: Building a Rose Franchise for a New Era of PerfumeFragrance is no longer a supporting category in beauty. It is one of its most powerful growth engines. As of late 2025, L’Oréal holds an estimated 16 percent share of the global fragrance market, making it the leading player worldwide. Within the group, luxury fragrance has emerged as a central…
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Continue reading →: Why Your Perfume Doesn’t Last (And What Actually Fixes It)If your perfume seems to disappear an hour after application, the problem is rarely the fragrance itself. More often, it’s the skin it’s landing on. We’ve been trained to think longevity comes from stronger formulas or heavier notes. In reality, perfume behaves more like fabric dye than hairspray. It needs…
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Continue reading →: Vyrao Free 00: Perfume Focused on Liberation & SensualityI walked into Vyrao with curiosity rather than intent. The language around energy, crystals, and emotional wellness had always felt adjacent to fragrance rather than rooted in it. That changed when I visited the New York City pop-up. Yasmin Sewell greeted me herself, walked me through the entire line, and…
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Continue reading →: Ambre Nuit Esprit de Parfum by Dior: Worth the Price?Ambre Nuit Esprit de Parfum explores warmth, spice, and depth through a concentrated extrait format. The composition centers on cinnamon and cardamom, layered with soft musks and a subdued amber signature that ties it to Dior’s Ambre Nuit lineage. The effect is enveloping and intimate, with a distinctly nocturnal character.…
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Continue reading →: Inside Les Eaux Primordiales: A Conversation with Founder Arnaud PoulainWhen perfume houses speak of origin, they often reach for story before structure. A journey, a childhood memory, a sense of inheritance, capital softened into narrative. Arnaud Poulain did not begin that way. I contacted him after buying Couleur Primaire. At the time, I was not researching a brand or…
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Continue reading →: Who Cares What Makes a Perfume Expert?A recent article, “What Makes a Perfume Expert?” by Ermano Picco, positions itself as a defense of rigor, knowledge, and slow-earned authority in perfumery. While the premise appears reasonable, a closer reading exposes a disconnect between institutional ideas of expertise and the way perfume is actually experienced, discussed, and lived…
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Continue reading →: What ScentXplore NYC Reveals About Access in Modern Fragrance CultureI didn’t attend ScentXplore in New York. Not because I wasn’t interested, and not because I lacked access. One of the founders I recently interviewed was there, and I had considered going to finally meet him in person after our virtual conversation. In the end, I chose not to. Watching…
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Continue reading →: Aesop Aurner Perfume Review: Warm, Woody, and Easy to Live WithI walked into the Aesop store at Tysons Corner intending to buy Above Us Steorra. I walked out with two bottles instead. That outcome feels familiar in Aesop spaces. The brand has a way of drawing you in, not through spectacle, but through coherence. At roughly $200 for 50 ml,…
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Continue reading →: Influencers Are Not the Villain. Consumption Habits Are.Every few weeks a new video circulates warning viewers to “beware of influencers.” The tone is always the same. Influencers are paid to lie. They push products for profit. They cannot be trusted. My reaction is usually one word. Girl. If you genuinely believe anyone creating content for an audience…
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Continue reading →: The Clean Girl Perfume Edit: Nine Scents With Quiet PresenceThe clean perfume trend is everywhere, but most of what rises to the surface feels too thin or too soapy. I wanted to look at the idea differently. What does a clean scent feel like when it is designed for women who want softness with character and good performance on…
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Continue reading →: Want to Smell Like Ava Gardner? Or a Rich Aristocrat?Le Galion is one of the most quietly influential names in French perfumery. Founded in 1930 and shaped by master perfumer Paul Vacher, it once scented actresses, private salons and New York’s Stork Club. After decades of silence, the house was revived in 2014 with a commitment to its archives…
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Continue reading →: What Happened When MDCI Gave Zarokian a Blank PageQuiet Skill, High Craft and Perfume That Learns You Back MDCI sits quietly in the landscape of French perfumery, yet collectors who value refinement often find their way to it. We have already explored the house through our conversation with its creative director, and through the early trilogy composed by…
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Continue reading →: Early Francis Kurkdjian Perfumes for MDCI: A Complete Review of the TrilogyParfums MDCI was founded on the belief that beauty, culture and craftsmanship should guide perfumery. In 2006, when Claude Marchal asked Francis Kurkdjian to create a feminine fragrance for the young house, Kurkdjian returned with three. They were complete, distinct and deeply refined, so Marchal released them all. Promesse de…
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Continue reading →: TREND by CZAR: An Orris Story with a Masculine EdgeCZAR Fragrances is a Kuwait-based perfume house building a modern designer collection through collaborations with emerging international perfumers. They work with a range of different fragrance labs for different projects, choosing partners whose style matches the creative direction of each release. TREND is their collaboration with Argeville, an independent French…


