What Is Going On in the Perfume Industry?

When I started Elevated Classics almost two years ago, I was not trying to enter the perfume machine. The original idea was wider than fragrance. I wanted to create a space around living with more discernment: better basics, better materials, better manners, better style. Not luxury as performance, not expense mistaken for taste, not consumption dressed up as refinement. I was interested in the quieter upgrade, the better version, the thing chosen with intention because it improved the texture of daily life.

Then perfume pulled me in.

At first, fragrance felt like the natural extension of everything I cared about. Perfume is intimate. It belongs to ritual, memory, seduction, identity, and presentation. It can change the way a woman walks into a room. It can make the ordinary feel composed. It can turn getting dressed into an act of self-possession. It is invisible, but it leaves evidence everywhere: on a coat collar, in a room, in another person’s memory, in the private confidence of the wearer.

Then I entered the social media side of fragrance, and the romance got loud.

A man speaking in front of a display of various perfume bottles, promoting an event titled 'An evening with TJ Talks Scents' on December 15th from 6-7 PM at H beauty Lakeside.

Everywhere I looked, someone was telling people where their money should go. Buy this. Boycott that. Support this house. Avoid that corporation. This brand is real niche. That brand is fake niche. This perfumer deserves your money. That conglomerate does not. A self-taught perfumer with a ring light could declare an entire global beauty group morally bankrupt by noon, then promote their own bottle by dinner.

I resist that kind of certainty, especially when it comes without evidence.

A small brand does not automatically deserve your money more than a large company. Artisanal is not automatically better than corporate. And a perfume made through a major fragrance house is not automatically empty, compromised, or soulless. Some of the most extraordinary fragrances in the world have come from large houses with in-house perfumers, serious archives, technical discipline, quality control, and a culture of perfumery that many younger brands imitate from a distance.

I love Chanel. I love Hermès. I love Guerlain. I love Cartier. I love Serge Lutens. These are not little romantic operations hidden behind a stone wall in Provence, yet many of them preserve a relationship to authorship, craft, and institutional memory that still feels real. I also follow perfumers I admire wherever they create. If a perfumer whose work I respect makes something beautiful for a global brand, I am interested. If they compose for an independent house, I am interested. Talent does not become less talented because the invoice comes from a larger company.

Corporate scale is not what bothers me. Costume does.

The Costume of Authenticity

I am interested in the moment when perfume stops being honest about what it is.

Invented heritage. Borrowed château imagery. Founder mythology. Vague sourcing language. The suggestion of handcraft without any clarity around who composes, compounds, macerates, bottles, packages, or distributes the perfume. The modern niche house that uses the language of intimacy while depending on industrial anonymity.

That kind of storytelling can be beautiful from a distance. It can also become a fog machine.

A pink perfume bottle with a silver cap and tassel, surrounded by white flowers and scattered seeds on a reflective surface.

The reverse fantasy bothers me just as much: the idea that smallness itself is proof of virtue. A private founder is not automatically more ethical because the company is small. A self-taught perfumer is not automatically more authentic because they reject the establishment. A brand is not automatically more honest because the founder answers Instagram comments personally.

How do we know where the materials come from? How do we know who makes the concentrate? How do we know how the packaging is produced, how workers are treated, how suppliers operate, how claims are verified?

Often, we do not.

That is where Elevated Classics began to change. What started as a lifestyle platform became a place for investigating the story behind the bottle. I wanted founders, owners, perfumers, and creative directors to have room to explain what they were building, but I also wanted to ask the questions that turn a beautiful brand story into something more substantial. Where is the perfume made? Who composed it? Who financed the brand? Who owns the formula? Who controls production? Why was a particular lab chosen? What does the brand make in-house, and what does it outsource? Where does the language of craft meet actual craft?

The funny thing is, many brands say they want this conversation.

Until they receive the questions.

More often than people might imagine, brands agree to be interviewed and then disappear after I send the questions. After basic questions about how they work. Some brands want the glow of editorial coverage without the discomfort of being transparent. They want to be called artisanal, independent, heritage, disruptive, rare, transparent, or sustainable, but they do not always want to explain what those words mean in practice.

I do not owe that system politeness.

The Problem Is Not Givaudan

I have had to confront my own bias here.

I am naturally drawn to perfume houses that feel close to materials and process. I like brands that work with serious independent labs, with people like Rémi Pulverail and L’Atelier Français des Matières, where the conversation begins with raw materials, extraction, sourcing, and technical knowledge. There is intimacy in that model. It feels closer to the field, the harvest, the material, and the decisions that shape the perfume before it becomes a finished object.

Given the choice, I often prefer buying from brands with that kind of traceability. That is my honest preference. But preference is not proof.

The major fragrance companies are not villains. Givaudan, IFF, Firmenich, Robertet, Takasago, and others hold enormous technical knowledge. They employ brilliant perfumers, maintain safety standards, support consistency, and make possible many fragrances people deeply love. A perfume made through one of these companies can be beautiful, polished, and emotionally compelling.

The partnership is not the problem. The story being sold around it is.

Imagine a bottle of wine dressed in the language of a great Bordeaux château, with all the codes of Margaux: estate, terroir, scarcity, origin, and control. Then imagine learning that the wine was made through a large-scale system closer to Mondavi: reliable, technically sound, widely produced, and perfectly valid in its own category.

That would not make the wine bad. But it would make the marketing and pricing dishonest.

If the consumer is paying for Margaux romance, the structure behind the bottle should be able to support it. Estate. Origin. Control. Specificity. A real relationship between the myth and the making.

Perfume has its own version of this problem.

A brand can work with Givaudan and still make a good fragrance. It can work with IFF, Firmenich, Robertet, Takasago, or any major fragrance house and still produce something beautiful. But that is not the same story as a house built around rare materials, independent laboratory work, close relationships with growers, small-scale production, or a direct line between the raw material and the finished bottle.

Both models can have value. They should not be marketed as if they are the same.

A perfume made through the machinery of scale does not need to be dressed in the language of untouched atelier craft, rare intimacy, and founder-led mystique. I do not need every perfume to be Margaux. I do not need every perfume to come from a tiny lab, a family field, or a founder’s own hands.

But if it is Mondavi, call it Mondavi.

That is the conversation I want fragrance writing to make space for: not a simplistic attack on scale, not a blind romance of independence, but an honest accounting of what the consumer is actually being asked to buy.

The Consumer Is Not the Problem

Here is the part that makes all of this complicated: most people will never ask any of these questions.

Most consumers want to know if a perfume smells good, lasts long, brings compliments, fits their budget, and makes them feel attractive. That is not shallow. That is how most people engage with beauty. Perfume should not require a graduate degree in supply chains before someone can enjoy a bottle.

This is why dupe culture has exploded.

When the fragrance industry asks people to pay $300, $450, or $700 for a bottle while offering very little clarity about who made it, what is inside it, why it costs that much, or how much of the story is material reality versus marketing, many consumers will look elsewhere. If a $40 perfume gives them the same mood, the same compliment, the same sweet cloud in the elevator, they may not care whether the original used a rare natural, a captive molecule, a famous perfumer, or a century of brand history.

And honestly, I understand that.

The burden of fixing the fragrance industry should not fall on the average person standing between groceries, rent, childcare, and a bottle of perfume. Consumers should not need to become investigators to enjoy smelling good. The burden belongs higher up: with brands, retailers, marketers, media, and anyone profiting from opacity while selling romance at luxury prices.

There are also people who want to know, not out of snobbery or a desire to police pleasure, but because they understand that perfume is more than a smell. It is agriculture, chemistry, authorship, manufacturing, distribution, pricing, history, and imagination. A bottle contains decisions. Some are beautiful. Some are cynical. Most are complicated.

That is the audience I write for.

Viral Culture Has Made Perfume Bigger and Smaller at the Same Time

The fragrance industry is growing at atomic speed. There are more launches, more founders, more discovery sets, more “artisanal” brands, more extrait versions, more limited editions, more dupe houses, more influencers, more affiliate links, more haul videos, and more people calling themselves collectors after six months of blind buying.

The market looks enormous. The conversation often feels smaller.

MDCI is a perfect example of what gets lost. Parfums MDCI is not a one-hit viral house. It is an independent French brand founded in 2003, with a portfolio shaped in collaboration with major perfumers including Pierre Bourdon, Bertrand Duchaufour, Francis Kurkdjian, Stéphanie Bakouche, Cécile Zarokian, Patricia de Nicolaï, and Nathalie Feisthauer. Yet the public conversation often narrows around the few bottles that become most visible online, especially Chypre Palatin, Invasion Barbare, and Pêche Cardinal.

A man examining a perfume bottle in front of a classical bust while discussing MDCI fragrances.

That is not because the rest of the house lacks value. It is because the algorithm has a very small appetite dressed up as discovery.

A brand can have a deep portfolio, serious compositions, and years of work behind it, yet the consumer conversation collapses around the fragrances that perform best on social media. The others become invisible, not because they failed artistically, but because they did not become content.

That is narrowing disguised as abundance.

People think they are exploring more because they are seeing more content. Often they are being pushed toward the same handful of names, the same notes, the same performance claims, the same bottles, the same adjectives, the same value system that treats projection as proof of quality.

This paralysis is not accidental. It is reinforced by a technology designed to give you, today, another version of what you chose yesterday. It rarely offers you a different tomorrow.

Loud Is Not the Same as Luxurious

I am not against aroma chemicals.

Modern perfumery would not exist without them. Some of the most beautiful perfumes ever made depend on synthetics. Chanel, Hermès, Guerlain, Serge Lutens, and nearly every serious perfume house use them with intelligence, elegance, and purpose.

The molecule is not the problem. The problem begins when projection becomes the entire value system.

We now have a market where “monster performance” is treated as proof of quality. A perfume can be loud, durable, and technically effective, and suddenly it is praised as luxurious. But volume alone is not craftsmanship. Longevity alone is not beauty. Filling a room is not the same as composing a fragrance with shape, texture, evolution, and emotional intelligence.

Some consumers love that kind of power, and they are allowed to love it. My interest is in the difference between a perfume that performs and a perfume that is composed. Those are not always the same thing.

The Collector as Content Machine

There is another part of this culture I cannot ignore.

A lot of perfume content is no longer really about perfume. It is about acquisition. The constant hauls. The blind-buy spirals. The “run, don’t walk” urgency. The endless justification of another bottle, another backup, another flanker, another discovery set, another expensive extrait that smells almost exactly like the eau de parfum released two years earlier.

Some collectors are deeply knowledgeable. Some are generous, thoughtful, and serious. I have learned from many of them. But the current algorithm rewards speed, volume, novelty, and emotional urgency. A perfume is unboxed before it is understood. A fragrance is reviewed before it has been worn through weather, fabric, skin, mood, and time. Bottles arrive faster than opinions can mature.

A smiling person wearing glasses and a patterned jacket, with the text 'WHO CARES WHAT MAKES A PERFUME EXPERT?' overlaid on the image.

There is also a new conversation happening around GLP-1 medications, appetite, reward, craving, and compulsive behavior. Researchers are studying how GLP-1 receptor agonists may affect reward pathways, cue reactivity, impulsivity, and addiction-related behaviors. Washington University School of Medicine reported in 2026 that GLP-1 use was associated with reductions in substance use disorder outcomes in a large study, while Brown University researchers have described ongoing work around craving, cue reactivity, impulsivity, and executive function.

I am not a doctor, and I am not making a medical claim about perfume collecting. I am writing as a lay observer inside beauty culture, where people openly talk about shifts in appetite, fixation, reward, and consumption. Whether the trigger is medication, algorithmic exposure, emotional regulation, boredom, status, loneliness, or simple pleasure, the result inside perfume culture often looks the same: more wanting, more buying, more posting, more justification.

The industry benefits from that. The platforms benefit from that. The consumer is left calling it passion.

Why I Keep Doing It

I struggle with this work more often than people might imagine.

There are days when I want to stop, usually after I have spent too much time inside the perfume content cycle and begin to wonder whether participating in it makes me complicit in the very machine I criticize. I do not want to turn fragrance into more noise. I do not want to perform expertise for attention, flatter brands for access, or pretend every bottle deserves a mythology simply because it arrived with a press release and a beautiful image.

This work is expensive, time-consuming, emotionally draining, and often absurdly impractical. In the traditional sense, I have very little to lose. That can be lonely, but it keeps the work clean.

Every time I think I am done, I speak to someone who reminds me why perfume is worth taking seriously. A founder who can explain why a particular lab was chosen. A perfumer who talks about materials with the precision of someone who has lived with them. A creative director who admits the compromises of growth without hiding behind poetry. A small house that understands scale without pretending to be untouched by it. A heritage brand that still has enough memory to know what it stands for.

Those conversations bring me back. The real story, when someone is willing to tell it, is still worth the trouble.

What Elevated Classics Is Becoming

Two years in, I understand Elevated Classics more clearly than I did when I began.

I want to give founders, owners, perfumers, and creative directors the room to explain what they are building, but I also want to ask the questions that turn a beautiful brand story into something more substantial. Who founded the house? Who composed the perfume? Who produces it? What does the brand control? What does it outsource? Why did it choose that route? Where does the language of craft meet actual craft? Where does heritage become history, and where does it become theater? What does rarity mean when a bottle is everywhere? What does luxury mean?

This is the part of perfume that fascinates me most: the hidden architecture. Not only how something smells, but how it came to exist. The people, labs, fields, factories, suppliers, ambitions, compromises, costs, mistakes, and beautiful choices no consumer sees but every consumer eventually wears.

That is where I want Elevated Classics to live.

The Elevated Classics Manifesto

Transparency is more useful than purity. Purity is often a fantasy. Transparency gives us something better: the ability to understand.

Scale can produce beauty when it is handled with intelligence, memory, technical discipline, and respect for the work. Smallness can be beautiful too, but only when it is more than an aesthetic. A global house can make something extraordinary. A small house can hide behind its own mythology. Size does not tell the whole story.

Perfumers should be named, not as a formality, but as an act of authorship. I follow the work of perfumers I admire across brands, budgets, ownership structures, and categories because talent does not become less interesting when it moves through a larger house, and artistry does not become more sacred simply because the brand is independent.

Consumers deserve to know who made the concentrate, who supplied the materials, who bottled the perfume, who owns the brand, and who benefits from the story. Every purchase does not need to become an investigation, but luxury should be able to explain itself.

Pleasure does not need to be policed. A person should be allowed to buy the $40 perfume if that is what brings joy, confidence, compliments, or a little beauty into a difficult week. That pleasure does not become less valid because someone else has a larger budget, a bigger collection, or a more sophisticated vocabulary. At the same time, people should be allowed to ask why the $400 perfume costs $400, and whether the answer lives in the materials, the perfumer, the production, the brand history, the bottle, the distribution, or simply the mood board.

Natural materials are not automatically superior. Synthetics are not automatically cheap. Projection is not quality. Modern perfumery is built on the intelligence of both nature and chemistry. What matters is how materials are used, how they are priced, how they are described, and whether loudness is being sold as craftsmanship.

A brand that grows roses should be proud enough to explain how much of those roses actually enter the perfume. Heritage should be traceable, not invented in a campaign deck. Craft can exist in a laboratory, a factory, a farm, a founder’s studio, or a major house, but it should never need to hide behind vague language.

Perfume writing can be more generous, more rigorous, and more alive than compliments, hauls, rankings, and affiliate links. It can hold beauty and skepticism in the same hand. It can admire without surrendering judgment. It can love the fantasy while still asking whether the fantasy has a foundation.

And after all of this, I still love perfume.

I love the bottle, the first spray, the private decision of choosing who I want to be that day. I love the way a fragrance can make a woman feel composed before anyone else sees her. I love the memory, the ritual, the vanity tray, the scarf that still carries yesterday’s scent, the coat collar that smells beautiful the next morning. I love the unreasonable power of something invisible to change the atmosphere around a person.

I love perfume too much to let it become only noise. So this is the work I am building now: a record of the real stories behind fragrance, told with beauty, curiosity, pressure, and respect for the intelligence of the reader.

I am not trying to ruin the fantasy. I want to understand it.


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