I started following the perfume industry closely, immersing myself in everything from online fragrance groups to social media influencers, and critics. But something quickly became clear: everyone seemed to focus on the same familiar faces. The niche brands, while luxurious, came with hefty price tags. Then there are the Middle Eastern perfume houses, known for their deep roots in perfumery, producing both original scents and affordable dupes. They’ve earned their place in the spotlight, but I couldn’t help but feel that unique niche perfume houses were missing from my collection.
Like many fragrance enthusiasts, I own or was gifted popular choices: Parfums de Marly’s Delina, Valaya, some of the Arabian stars, and designer staples like Prada Paradoxe and YSL Libre. While my collection is varied, it still feels somewhat predictable. I started wondering how I could build a more meaningful connection with my perfumes, one that goes beyond the mass-market scents everyone seems to own. That’s when I decided to dive deeper and expand my wish list with more unique, under-the-radar brands.
Here’s a curated list of niche brands that I’ve found fascinating in my research. These are not the usual suspects, but underground perfume houses offering something different.
Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima

- Founded: 2013
- Founder: Stefania Squeglia, a former event organizer, pursued her childhood dream of creating perfumes. Born and raised in Naples, her inspiration stems from mythology, spirituality, and human emotion.
- Perfumer Partners: Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel (Flair Paris).
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Le Mat: A spiritual, earthy chypre with rich notes of rose, patchouli, and cloves. This perfume received a coveted 5-star rating from Luca Turin.
- Sogno Reale: A mystical, incense-infused scent with marine and woody notes that transports you to another realm.
- Fragrance Style: Mendittorosa’s scents are deeply emotional and artistic, often inspired by mythology and spirituality. These aren’t just scents; they are olfactory stories.
Bogue Profumo

- Founded: Early 2010s
- Founder & Perfumer: Antonio Gardoni, an architect by trade, who approaches perfume creation like an architectural design, structured, layered, and detailed.
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Fragrance Style: Bogue’s perfumes have an avant-garde, vintage flair, challenging traditional scent structures.
Hiram Green

- Founded: 2013
- Founder & Perfumer: Hiram Green, a Canadian perfumer based in the Netherlands, is committed to crafting all-natural perfumes.
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Moon Bloom: A lush, natural tuberose fragrance that is complex yet delicate.
- Slowdive: A rich, honeyed tobacco fragrance with notes of beeswax, dried fruits, and resins.
- Fragrance Style: Hiram Green’s perfumes are all-natural, eco-conscious, and handcrafted in small batches.
Naomi Goodsir Parfums

- Founded: 2012
- Founder: Naomi Goodsir, an Australian designer known for her avant-garde millinery work, transitioned into the perfume world to further her creative expression.
- Perfumer Partners: Bertrand Duchaufour and Julien Rasquinet.
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Bois d’Ascese: A smoky, leathery perfume with dominant notes of incense, whisky, and wood.
- Cuir Velours: A soft, suede-like leather fragrance with tobacco, rum, and honey.
- Fragrance Style: Goodsir’s perfumes are dark, moody, and luxurious, reflecting her unique creative vision.
Slumberhouse

- Founded: 2011
- Founder & Perfumer: Josh Lobb is known for creating bold, dense, and syrupy fragrances with immense depth.
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Fragrance Style: Slumberhouse perfumes are dense, layered, and unapologetically intense, making them favorites among niche perfume lovers.
Masque Milano

- Founded: 2012
- Founders: Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi, who treat each perfume as an “act” in an olfactory opera, weaving narratives into their creations.
- Perfumer Partners: Cécile Zarokian, Luca Maffei, and Fanny Bal.
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Fragrance Style: Masque Milano’s perfumes are conceptual and narrative-driven, each scent representing a different act of an olfactory journey.
Zoologist Perfumes

- Founded: 2013
- Founder: Victor Wong, a designer who found his passion in conceptual perfumes inspired by animals and nature.
- Perfumer Partners: Bertrand Duchaufour, Ellen Covey, and others.
- Top-Selling Perfumes:
- Fragrance Style: Zoologist is known for its unique, animal-themed perfumes that take inspiration from the natural world, blending artistic concepts with innovative ingredients.
By expanding my fragrance collection beyond the well-known luxury brands, I’ve discovered a world of hidden gems. These brands represent a fresh perspective in perfumery, one that is rooted in artistry, culture, and a deep connection to their ingredients. Whether from Italy, Brazil, or Canada, these niche houses offer something truly different, perfect for anyone looking to deepen their relationship with scent.
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