Discovery sets are often a double-edged sword for perfume enthusiasts like me. On one hand, they’re a convenient way to explore a brand’s offerings without committing to a full bottle. On the other, they can feel like tiny, frustrating teases, just enough juice to spark curiosity but rarely enough to fall in love properly.
When my husband, returned from England with Penhaligon’s Joy Filled Delights Dinky Bites Discovery Set, I was both touched and skeptical. The whimsical name promised a playful experience, but my history with discovery sets left me wary. Was this going to be another exercise in fleeting impressions and unfulfilled potential? Or would Penhaligon’s change my mind?
A Glimpse into Penhaligon’s Storied Past
Before diving into the fragrances, it’s worth reflecting on the heritage of Penhaligon’s. Founded in 1870 by William Penhaligon, a Cornish barber turned royal perfumer, the brand became synonymous with British elegance. Known for its imaginative compositions and exquisite craftsmanship, Penhaligon’s has always balanced tradition with innovation. Its signature bottles, complete with bow-tied stoppers, are a nod to its Victorian roots, while its fragrances have evolved to capture modern sensibilities.
Today, Penhaligon’s is owned by Puig, a Spanish fashion and fragrance powerhouse known for its stewardship of luxury brands such as Carolina Herrera and Jean Paul Gaultier. Under Puig’s ownership since 2015, Penhaligon’s has expanded its reach globally while continuing to honor its heritage and maintain its reputation for crafting distinctive, evocative fragrances.
This discovery set is a curated collection of eight scents, offering a spectrum of the brand’s artistry. With a mix of classics and contemporary creations, the set includes:
- Luna Eau de Toilette
- Juniper Sling Eau de Toilette
- Eau de Audacity Eau de Parfum
- Empressa Eau de Parfum
- Halfeti Eau de Parfum
- The Tragedy of Lord George Eau de Parfum
- The Coveted Duchess Rose Eau de Parfum
- The Blazing Mr. Sam Eau de Parfum
Navigating the Scents
Luna Eau de Toilette
Inspired by the ethereal glow of the moon, Luna opens with a bright citrus burst of bergamot and lemon. The heart of jasmine and rose is soft and luminous, while the base of fir balsam and musk adds a whisper of warmth. It’s undeniably fresh and wearable, like slipping into crisp, clean linens under a moonlit sky. I liked it immediately for its effortless charm.
Juniper Sling Eau de Toilette
A love letter to the roaring twenties and London Dry Gin, Juniper Sling is a sparkling blend of juniper berry, black pepper, and cardamom, grounded by leather, orris wood, and brown sugar. It’s playful and slightly boozy, evoking the carefree spirit of a speakeasy. While I enjoyed its spirited character, it felt more like a novelty than a staple for my collection.
Empressa Eau de Parfum
Empressa is a polished fruity-floral with notes of blood orange, bergamot, and peach atop a heart of rose, neroli, and cardamom. The base of patchouli, amber, and sandalwood lends it an air of sophistication. However, its resemblance to Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle is uncanny, and I couldn’t help but prefer the latter for its richer complexity.
Halfeti Eau de Parfum
Named after a Turkish village famous for its black roses, Halfeti is an opulent unisex fragrance. The blend of bergamot, cardamom, rose, and oud creates a heady, exotic profile. I’ve long admired this scent but find it too masculine for my taste. It’s a masterpiece, nonetheless.
The Tragedy of Lord George Eau de Parfum
Part of the Portraits collection, The Tragedy of Lord George is a deeply masculine and opulent scent. With notes of brandy, shaving soap, and tonka bean, it paints a vivid picture of an old-world gentleman. It’s elegant but far too heavy for me.
The Coveted Duchess Rose Eau de Parfum
Another Portraits fragrance, The Coveted Duchess Rose reimagines the classic rose with a modern twist. Mandarin brightens the opening, leading to a heart of velvety rose and a base of musky wood. As someone who loves authentic rose scents, this was a standout for me. It captures the beauty of a rose garden at dawn, dewy, vibrant, and enchanting.
The Blazing Mr. Sam Eau de Parfum
With cardamom, black pepper, cumin, and tobacco, Mr. Sam leans unapologetically masculine. Its spicy warmth is intriguing but not something I’d wear.
Eau de Audacity Eau de Parfum
Eau de Audacity surprised me with its uncanny resemblance to Yves Saint Laurent’s Babycat. With its warm blend of vanilla, incense, and spicy notes, it exudes a refined smokiness. While I appreciated the richness, the similarity to Babycat made it feel less unique in the set.
Reflections on the Experience
While the Joy Filled Delights Dinky Bites Discovery Set didn’t convert me into a discovery set enthusiast, it did reaffirm Penhaligon’s reputation for crafting distinctive and evocative fragrances. The Coveted Duchess emerged as a favorite, and Luna’s freshness felt like a breath of air. Empressa, though beautiful, fell short of standing out due to its similarity to Coco Mademoiselle. The rest of the scents skewed masculine, highlighting Penhaligon’s strength in creating bold, character-driven compositions.
Discovery sets may never replace the joy of spritzing from a full bottle, but for those of us far from perfumeries, they offer a bittersweet compromise. As for this set, it was a delightful journey through Penhaligon’s world, even if some stops weren’t quite my destination.
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