In the opulent world of fragrance, where a 100ml bottle can cost more than a month’s rent, a growing number of influencers and perfumers are rallying behind a tired refrain: Don’t support dupes. They argue that perfume dupers are “stealing art,” undermining perfumers’ hard work, and diluting the magic of niche luxury. But here’s the question no one wants to ask: Why should luxury be reserved only for the rich?
Let’s get something straight. perfumery, like fashion, is an industry. One driven by profit margins, marketing stories, and brand identity. And in this economy, where the average consumer is grappling with inflation, student debt, and the cost of living, are we really gatekeeping scent?
Luxury Is Not Sacred. It’s a Business.
Luxury perfumers love to position themselves as torchbearers of a noble art. And to be fair, many are. But artistry doesn’t exclude profit motive. A niche perfume house charging $425 for a bottle manufactured in a shared facility with outsourced production is still a for-profit business. The perfumer was paid. The oil supplier got paid. The markup exists. And yet, the same voices who decry “dupers” often remain silent about transparency, ingredient sourcing, or inflated pricing.
Francis Kurkdjian recently called dupers “thieves of art.” But Kurkdjian himself sold his house to LVMH, the largest luxury conglomerate in the world, a group whose profit model depends on exclusivity, not accessibility. He’s now the in-house perfumer at Dior, a brand more known for celebrity-fronted ads than artisan storytelling. The irony is not lost on consumers.
History Has Always Repeated Scent
Perfume duplication isn’t new. In fact, Coco Chanel’s Chanel No. 5 was widely copied within just a few years of its release in 1921. Guerlain’s Shalimar inspired dozens of orientals. The rise of aldehydes, fougères, gourmands, all moved in waves because formulas were reinterpreted, reimagined, and yes, sometimes copied.
The industry itself thrives on trends and shared structures. The bestselling perfume in America right now, Baccarat Rouge 540, has inspired hundreds of dupes, spinoffs, and reinterpretations. Why? Because it became a scent archetype. The olfactory equivalent of Levi’s 501s or a black leather jacket.
Would we shame someone for buying faux leather boots instead of Loro Piana suede? Then why do we shame people for buying Lattafa instead of Roja Dove?
Influencers Should Be Advocates, Not Gatekeepers
What’s even more disappointing is the role influencers play in this narrative. Instead of standing up for their audiences, many influencers, most of whom receive free PR boxes and commissions on affiliate links, protect the luxury brands. They guilt-trip people for buying what they can afford. But the average consumer isn’t trying to “steal art.” They’re trying to smell good without skipping a utility bill.
If you’re in a position of influence and not advocating for accessibility, you’re not a tastemaker. You’re a gatekeeper.
Champagne for the People, Perfume Too
To paraphrase (really paraphrase) Christopher Hitchens, when told that “champagne is only for the rich,” he replied, “Then to hell with the rich, champagne is too good to be wasted on just them.” Perfume is no different. The ability to smell beautiful, to capture emotion through scent, to enter a room and leave a trace, that belongs to all of us. Not just the ones with money to burn.
Let’s stop pretending that dupes are the problem. The real issue is the industry’s obsession with exclusivity and its disdain for the working-class consumer. Perfume is art, yes. But it’s also commerce. And in a market where even the “niche” has become mass-produced, the idea that dupes destroy creativity is more perfume PR than perfume truth.
So wear your Afnan Supremacy Not Only Intense. Layer your Zara Red Temptation. Explore your Dua Project. Smell incredible. Feel powerful. And know that luxury doesn’t have to mean overpriced.
Because the magic of scent belongs to everyone.
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