Rémi Pulvérail returns to Elevated Classics for a candid conversation about independent perfumery, ingredient development, his work with Antoine Lie, and the recent debate surrounding gowé.
Rémi is the co-founder of Les Indémodables, L’Atelier Français des Matières and Eden Ecosystem, giving him an unusual vantage point on the perfume industry. His work spans the finished fragrance, the materials inside it and the technical development that happens long before a bottle reaches the counter.
In our latest interview, we talk about how Les Indémodables continues to evolve, the house’s longstanding collaboration with perfumer Antoine Lie, and the thinking behind its newest fragrances, Café Arabesque and Parfum Secret.
But much of our conversation takes place further behind the scenes.
Rémi explains how natural materials are sourced, how extraction projects are developed, who finances the research, and what exclusivity actually means when a perfume house or third party commissions a new material.
It is an area of perfumery consumers rarely see, yet it has an enormous influence on what eventually becomes possible for a perfumer.
The Gowé Conversation
We also address the recent controversy surrounding gowé, Amouage and CPL Aromas.
The discussion online has raised questions about prior use of gowé, originality, credit, sourcing and who can legitimately claim to have introduced or developed a material.
Rather than reducing the issue to a headline, I wanted Rémi to explain Eden Ecosystem’s involvement directly.
In the interview, he walks through how the material first entered their laboratory, how the development process evolved, the role of R&D, and how Eden Ecosystem eventually became involved in the work connected to CPL Aromas and Amouage.
Whether or not you have followed the controversy closely, the discussion offers a useful look at how ingredient development actually works and why the distinction between a plant, an extract and a newly developed perfumery material matters.
Working With Antoine Lie
We also spend time discussing Rémi’s long relationship with Antoine Lie, whose work has become central to the identity of Les Indémodables.
Their collaboration is particularly interesting because it extends beyond commissioning finished formulas. Access to materials, extraction work and the structure surrounding the perfumer all become part of the creative process.
We discuss that relationship, the development of Café Arabesque and Parfum Secret, and what Rémi sees ahead for Les Indémodables.
Watch the Full Interview
The full conversation is now available on the Elevated Classics YouTube channel:
This is also not my first conversation with Rémi. If you would like to go back to the beginning of the story, you can read our earlier interview with Les Indémodables here:
If you watch the interview, I would love to know what stood out to you, particularly Rémi’s explanation of raw-material development and the gowé discussion.
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